Fast Growing Flowering Cherry Trees

Flowering cherry trees, also known as ornamental cherry trees, paint your yard with showy blooms. These cherry trees aren’t grown for edible fruit. Instead , they bear no fruit or small, bird-attracting drupe. Flowering cherry trees generally to grow 24 inches each year, but some are believed to develop 36 inches each year. They grow best in moist, well-drained, acidic soil in a website featuring full to partial sun.

The Fastest

The quickest growing flowering cherry trees grow 3 feet each year. Yoshino flowering cherry (Prunus yedoensis), also known as Potomac cherry and Tokyo cherry, has a canopy in an oval, curved or umbrella shape which reaches 35 feet tall. Its fragrant pink blossoms blossom in winter or spring, along with its leaves turn bronze or gold in fall. Pink star flowering cherry (P. serrulata “Beni-Hoshi”) comes with an umbrella-shaped canopy which attains 25 feet tall. Its purple, purple blooms blossom in spring and its leaves turn red, orange, bronze or gold in fall. Both trees bear small, black drupe in summer or beginning of winter and develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8.

Graceful Weeping Branches

Akebono flowering cherry (P. yedoensis “Akebono”) and weeping Higan cherry (P. subhirtella “Pendula”) possess graceful, weeping branches and keep pink blossoms in winter or spring. The canopy of this Akebono flowering cherry grows into a rounded, umbrella or vase shape and gets 25 feet tall at a rate of 2 feet each year. It’s fragrant flowers. Pink higan cherry (Prunus × subhirtella “Rosea”) comes with an oval, curved or umbrella shaped canopy and gets 25 feet tall at a the slow rate of 2 feet each year. Both trees bear small, black drupe in summer or winter and have leaves that turn gold or bronze in fall.

Loamy to Sandy Soil

Mount Fuji Japanese flowering cherry, also known a Mount Fuji cherry (P. “Shirotae”) and Shirofugen flowering cherry, also known as Japanese flowering cherry, thrive in loamy to sandy dirt and have fragrant blooms. Both trees grow 24 inches per year to receive 25 feet tall and yield small, black drupe in winter, summer or fall. Mount Fuji provides purple, purple or white flowers bloom in spring or winter. Shirofugen bears aromatic white or pink blossoms in summer or spring.

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9

Slightly warmer climates of USDA hardiness zone 9 can nevertheless relish flowering cherry trees, including, the Kwansan Japanese flowering cherry (P. serrulata “Kwanzan”). This tree typically grows 2 feet each year and gets 25 feet tall, but the height of a single in California is 43 feet. It’s an oval, curved or umbrella-shaped canopy, and has fragrant, pink or rose flowers in spring which become small black drupe a season or two later.

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The way to Identify Shrews, Moles & Voles

Whether a modest mouse-like creature startled you from scurrying through your yard or you discovered evidence of tunneling, learning to identify moles, shrews and voles is actually the first step in addressing these troublesome critters. Of the seven North American species of moles — insectivores linked to bats and shrews — four are located west of the Rockies. Thirty species of shrews — surviving on insects such as butterflies, wasps and crickets — reside around the nation. The strictist of schizophrenia, voles are found in just about any portion of the United States. With sleuthing and some careful observation, you can learn to inform these three apart.

Inspect your yard and garden for signs of infestation from the following three animals. Although you aren’t likely to see moles, they depart tell-tale volcano-shaped mounds 2 to 24 inches tall at the entrance to their burrows, and tunnel tracks under your yard and garden. Shrews typically reside in tunnels dug by moles as well as other mammals — you will need different methods to recognize them. Voles are best identified from the small trails they produce leading from 1 burrow entry to another.

Familiarize yourself with ordinary sizes. Moles are the biggest of the group, averaging 7 inches from tip to the end of a 1-inch hairless tail. Shrews are some of the smallest mammals in the world: mouse-sized and averaging just under 4 inches, excluding a 1-inch tail. Voles are usually over 4 inches long, with longer 1 1/2-inch, furry tails.

Look closely at fur coloring. Moles have thick, velvety fur ranging from gray to black. Shrew coat is short, soft and grayish. Voles are covered with coarse, short fur that is black-brown into gray-brown.

Study the general appearance of moles, shrews and voles when you visit them. Known for prominent front feet used for biting, moles have also elongated, hairless snouts. Their eyes and ears are both hidden by attractiveness. Shrews have also long, pointed snouts, but their eyes and ears are both visible. Voles’ rounded snouts are almost dull, and their bodies are chunky. Their eyes and ears are both exposed.

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Landscaping With Camelias

Landscaping with camellias (Camellia spp.) Adds year-round color to your outside space. All these broadleaf evergreen shrubs develop an average of 6 to 12 feet tall and are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. According to the United States National Arboretum, the most common species of camellia include Japanese or common camellia (Camellia japonica), which flowers in late winter and early spring along with sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), that blooms in fall. Camellias can be used as a landscape specimen, shrub border or privacy screen. Picking the proper planting spot is the key to successfully applying these low-maintenance shrubs in your landscape design.

Match With Other Sensors

Camellias grow best in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Plant camellias close other acid-loving plants, such as “Jean Marie De Montague” rhododendron (Rhododendron x “Jean Marie de Montague” (H-3)), that will be hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. Another option is “Happy Days” azalea (Azalea indica “Happy Days”), hardy in USDA zones 9 to 11. Space other plants at least five feet away from other plants to allow enough space for plants that are older to have great air circulation while also preventing the plant from needing to compete too far for water while getting established.

A Organic Privacy Screen

Plant rows of camellias as a hedge or to form a natural, colorful privacy display. Tall camellia cultivars that function like a hedge include “Yuletide” or “Spring’s Promise” Ice Angels camellia. “Yuletide” is hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10 and grows 8 to 10 feet tall, with a similar spread. “Spring’s Promise” rises in USDA zones 6 through 10, reaching heights and widths of 6 to 8 feet. American Camellia Society recommends planting camellias three feet apart when using them as hedges.

Produce Profuse, Multiseason Color

Produce a profusion of colour on your outside space. Camellias can be applied as a backdrop for shorter shrubs and perennials that bloom after camellias have finished thriving because the plants’ glossy, green foliage provides an appealing backdrop to the planting bed. Alternatives include putting other vibrant perennials in a similar shade and using a similar blossom time since the camellia to make a mass of color in the backyard. You could also plant camellias in planting beds, along with other shrubs and perennials with varying bloom times, to make a multiseason display.

Container Gardening

Grow camellias in containers to fill empty corners, then add attention to small outdoor spaces or to put on either side of an entryway. Smaller cultivars include “Fairy Blush,” which grows 4 to 5 feet tall and features dark pink flower buds that unfurl to reveal delicate pink flowers. “Marge Miler” is smaller, growing only 1 foot tall. It flowers in fall with delicate pink flowers. Repot container-grown plants every two or three years. Avoid having garden soil in containers since it can be too heavy. American Camellia Society recommends a potting mix for camellias and fertilizing the plants during the growing season using a camellia-specific fluid or using a mixture of 1 part iron and 4 components cottonseed meal.

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The Best Pest-Resistant Fruit Trees

Fruit trees provide delicious produce and attractive leaves, but if they endure from assaulting insects, it can be a lot of work for home gardeners to control the infestation. To decrease the chances of pest invasions, it is possible to purchase and develop pest-resistant trees. Some of the best fruit trees that could withstand pests in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10 include well-known varieties.

Sour Cherries

Gardeners prize cherry trees because of their beautiful flowers, pretty leaves and bark which turn colors in the autumn. Sour cherries are best to use for baked goods and preserves. Common insects of cherry trees include aphids, scale, borers, caterpillars and several types of worms. Sour cherry trees are more resistant to infection than sweet cherries. Montmorency cherries would be the most popular sour cherries grown in the country, according to the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. These reliable fruit producers have also a high resistance to infection. The “Northstar Dwarf” sour cherry also resists common cherry ailments.


Gardeners have an abundances of apple tree types to choose from. Apple tree enemies incorporate many insects, such as types of maggots and moths, scale and aphids. University scientists have developed apples, including the “Gold Rush” variety, that resist many common apple insects. Other vigorous, hardy and productive apple varieties, according to “The New Sunset Western Garden Book,” include “Haralson,” “Lodi,” “Mutsu,” “Newtown Pippin” and “Yellow Transparent.”


Persimmons are ideal fruit trees for home gardens. The East Asian natives resist most insects. The insects that do attack persimmons, such as mealybugs and scale, rarely cause serious issues. Persimmon trees are easy to take care of and tolerate less-than-ideal soil, drought-like conditions and wet feet during the winter, and do not require cross-pollination. They grow up to 30 feet tall and produce leaves which turn colors.

Quince and Che

Seedless che fruit resists pests and diseases well. Native to East Asia, the fruit tree needs little care, is drought tolerant and can endure poor soil conditions. It grows to about 25 feet tall and produces round clusters of red and dark red hot fruit which tastes like watermelon. Quince is a slow-growing deciduous pest-resistant fruit tree. It can grow over 20 feet tall. It has a shrubby look with twisted branches and distinctive leaves. They are dark green on top and whitish underneath and turn yellow throughout the autumn. Following the tree produces pink flowers, edible golden roundish aromatic fruit looks. Quince fruit is good for jams and baked goods when combined with other fruit.

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Plants & Flowers That Change Colors

Color changes in flowers and plants create intriguing effects in the garden and home. Kids enjoy experiments using carnations which take food coloring up their stems into the flowers. Certain plants present color changes as they age or as a flower matures. Only one plant may be manipulated to alter blossom color whenever it’s growing.


Big-leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) stand alone in their own ability to modify bloom color in response to soil conditions. They prosper in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. In acidic soil, which has a pH below 5.5, these plants produce blue flowers. In soils with neutral or alkaline pH of 6.5 and bigger, the flowers come out pink because the greater pH makes aluminum from the dirt unavailable to the plant. Soil pH in between those numbers may cause the plant to produce lavender flowers, or even pink and blue blooms on precisely the same plant. The particular cultivar of big leaf hydrangea also affects bloom color.

Flowers Color Changes

Unique flowers change color obviously. The “Fifth Dimension” cultivar of the tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) varies from a deep orange grass to a mild yellow flower from the time the grass opens in the morning to when it reaches full bloom in the night. Hibiscus plants grow well in USDA zones 9 and 10. Color changes during a blossom’s life are a sign to pollinators that the flower has aged past the pollination stage, the University of Vermont Extension notes.

Plant Color Changes

Several all-natural effects cause leaf to change color. Among the best-known shade changes is that the dynamic flaming shift of fall leaves. The bright colors which erupt from maples and other deciduous trees are caused by “anthocyanin” pigments. The trident maple (Acer buergerianum) rises in USDA zones 5 through 10. It’s an illustration of a tree with leaves that change color naturally in the fall.

Genetic Modification

Geneticists alter the pH in plant cells to make flowers in new colors. A plant’s genes determine blossom colour exactly the identical way that individual genes control eye shade. By creating a plant cells more acidic or more alkaline, then it is possible to alter the plant’s pigments. Red colors come from flavonoids, yellows and oranges from carotenoids and green from chlorophyll. Changing the levels of these pigments in various combinations creates new colors exactly the same way that combining paints together results in various colors. Scientists even utilize genes from one plant to make color changes in a plant from another species.

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When Can I Plant Vegetables in Soil That Was Sprayed for Termites?

Termites in and around a home can be removed by many different methods. A common procedure is to treat the dirt with sprays or injections of pesticides, known as termiticides. Previously, chlorinated hydrocarbons, that can be effective but potentially damaging to this environment, were used. Most pest control businesses use safer methods and comply with U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and state and local authorities regulations and recommendations. The best termiticides remain in the ground for several decades, however, and treated areas might not be acceptable for growing vegetables.

Termiticides Contaminate Soil

To repel or destroy termites, termiticides need to remain in the ground for a protracted time period. Termiticides are not easily washed away by ground moisture or rain. Normally, they are not readily taken up by plants. However an Arizona State University study showed a widely used termiticide, containing the active ingredient fipronil, was taken up by the roots of wheat plants. After several decades, the concentration of termiticide declines, but unless the identity and dirt concentration of this termiciticide is known, it might not be safe to plant vegetables in treated soil.

Keep the Distance

Normally, only dirt close to the house or building contains a worrisome concentration of termiticide. As farther-away plants develop, nevertheless, their origins may reach the termiticide-contaminated dirt. To be secure, plant a vegetable garden at least 3 to 4 feet away from the edge of the treated construction.

Eliminate Topsoil

If you have limited space to establish your vegetable garden, you can plant close to the treated area by removing the existing topsoil and replacing it with fresh topsoil. You can acquire new topsoil in a distant, uncontaminated region of your lawn or purchase totes or bulk topsoil in a garden center. Dig down to approximately 12 inches to eliminate existing dirt and replace it with exactly the same quantity of fresh topsoil. This is a labor-intensive procedure. If you plant close to the house or put wood mulch up to the house, you might encourage maternal invasions.

Build Raised Garden Beds

Another option for planting a vegetable garden near or on termiticide-contaminated ground is to use raised garden beds. You may build raised garden beds yourself or purchase garden bed kits. Utilize wood, metal, plastic, brick, stone or concrete blocks to the sides of the raised beds. Avoid wood treated with toxic chemicals. Some forest — like cedar, redwood and eucalyptus — will last more than other woods. Metal can rust or bend and plastic will deteriorate due to exposure to sunlight’s ultraviolet rays. Bricks, stones and concrete blocks are heavy but will last longest and appear appealing. Make your mattresses over 12 inches tall and fill them with fresh topsoil and compost.

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How to Bring Back Potted Roses By this past year

Gardeners grow roses (Rosa spp.) In containers or pots for a lot of reasons. Generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, depending on species and variety, container-grown roses have the majority of the very same requirements as roses grown in-ground. Plants which have overwintered in containers might need a little more special attention when spring rolls around to get them up and growing well. Bringing these roses back successfully requires monitoring, pruning and appropriate watering and feeding.

Late Winter/Early Spring

At the late winter or early spring, then begin checking containerized roses for signs of life. During this time, depending on weather conditions, the rose must be preparing to break dormancy and sprout new development. Look carefully at the stems or canes and also you must see buds beginning to swell. These can eventually give rise to new development. If your area is prone to unanticipated hard frosts in early spring, then set the plants in a protected location away from harsh winds. This prevents buds or young development from freezing.

Get Growing

When all danger of frost has passed, then give the rose a good pruning. Using sharp bows, cut off all dead canes, weak increase and any branches that cross each other. The pruning aim with containerized roses is the same like those developed in-ground — an open vase or even chalice-like shape that promotes good air circulation. If you have a set of potted roses, then be sure that they are not too close together. Fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, spread quickly in crowded conditions.

Food and Water

After the rose begins to break dormancy, begin regular watering. Container-grown plants, especially those raised in terra cotta pots, dry out quicker than the very same varieties grown in-ground. Water whenever the surface of the soil feels dry, continuing until water runs out the drainage holes. Roses in pots also need regular fertilization, because nutrients in potting mix become depleted over time. Utilize a water-soluble increased food, like 18-24-16, diluted at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Feed roses every 14 days, using the fertilizer-water mix taking the area of normal watering at those times.

Roots and Pots

If the rose does not recover quickly after winter, then it might be root-bound. To check, remove the plant from the grass If the sides of the soil are covered with a dense root network, then it likely requires a bigger pot. Select one that is at least several inches larger in height and width, place 1 inch of drainage material in the bottom and fill part-way with new potting mix. Position the rose’s root ball so that its top is a inch or two below the pot’s rim. Fill with additional potting mix, firming to get rid of air bubbles.

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How Can the significant Causes of Soil Erosion Be Corrected?

Soil erosion is the loss of topsoil or upper layer of dirt particles from land. It is a natural process caused by wind and rain, but human activities can greatly increase erosion. Over-cultivation or intensive farming, construction and deforestation worsen soil erosion. Erosion degrades dirt by destroying soil structure, causing loss of nutrients, and by decreasing the water-holding ability of soil. On slopes, Water Damage can cause mudslides. By using plants and other measures, homeowners can decrease soil erosion.

Planting and Mulching

Vegetation and soil containing organic matter help reduce erosion on both slopes and flat land. The origins of plants help hold the soil together. Add mulch or other organic matter into the soil to enrich it for better root growth and to make it more challenging for rain drops to split dirt particles. Vegetation and as many as 2 inches of mulch are successful at preventing excessive erosion on slopes with an increase around 33 percent, asserts the National Resource Conservation Service. Even though low-growing plants, such as ornamental grasses, can stabilize slopes with a 33 percent increase, steeper slopes require plants with deep roots, such as shrubs and trees, and other measures.

Terracing and Retaining Walls

You can avoid excessive erosion by decreasing the steepness and length of slopes. Build retaining walls or terraces into the incline. Terracing is like placing measures and several low retaining walls into a slope. Construct retaining walls and patio walls with bricks, rocks, concrete blocks or treated wood. Growing plants in the flat regions, created by terracing, also will help to reduce erosion. Consult your local building authority to find out if there are codes for construction keeping and patio walls. Utilize a professional for steep slopes or large terracing projects to ensure proper construction.

Water Diversion

Water runoff can cause erosion in nearby locations. To avoid water runoff from driveways and other paved areas, think about paving with material that enables water soak into the ground. Use porous pavers or asphalt to redo paths, driveways and other impermeable surfaces that cause runoff. Utilizing gravel is another choice. If rainwater from your roof triggers sediment in your lawn, use rain barrels to capture some of this rainwater. Another way to reduce water erosion would be to dig a small ditch near the top of a slope and allow the dump to drain into a planted area or a drainage area, created in a suitable area of the lawn.

Placing Windbreaks

Sandy soil is endangered over clay or silty soil by water and wind erosion. Erosion caused by water is the most severe in wet, hilly or sloping land areas, whilst erosion caused by wind is best in dry, windy and flat terrains. To reduce erosion caused by wind, plant shrubs or trees to function as windbreaks. Not all shrubs and trees grow well in windy places, so check with your regional garden nursery as to what shrubs and trees are best for a windbreak hedge.

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Can You Plant Tomatillos Next to Tomatoes at a Garden?

Even though the tomatillo plant (Physalis ixocarpa) and the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) might have similar names, they’re very distinct plants with different fruits. The tomatillo produces small yellow or green fruits enclosed in a papery covering known as a husk, while strawberries are husk-free and usually red, and larger than tomatillos. Both plants have been grown as annuals in all portions of the U.S. and you can successfully develop them side by side on your garden, as long as you listen to a few gaps in their cultural needs.

Picking a Site

You can begin both tomatoes and tomatillos from seeds indoors, beginning 8 or 6 weeks prior to placing seedlings in the garden, or you can purchase seedlings of plant at a garden center. Put them at the garden after land has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit, picking a site that gets full sun for at least 6 to 8 hours every single day, a must for good fruit production. Avoid a place where soil tends to stay soggy after a rain, because tomato and tomatillo plants need well-drained soil to thrive. You may develop both tomatillos and tomatoes in pots on a warm patio or porch, but choose determinate types of tomatoes — these stop getting taller by mid-season– or miniature tomato cultivars, and maintain tomatoes and tomatillos in separate pots for best results.

Spacing and Water

Tomatoes and tomatillos need similar spacing between plants, about 2 to 3 feet, which gives every plant enough space to spread without crowding. An even and regular water supply facilitates greatest growth and fruit production, and neither plant tolerates drought well. Approximately 1 to 2 inches of water each week is ideal, including rain, so supply the plants with additional water during dry spells. Mulching tomatoes and tomatillos using 2 or 3 inches of straw or shredded bark also will help keep soil moisture, while suppressing growth of weeds that compete with water.

Soil Nutrients

Healthy seedlings do not require fertilization till they’ve started to blossom and put fruits, but you can improve your soil’s general fertility by adding several inches of compost into your soil at planting, mixing it in well with a garden fork. Both plants yield the most fruit when they’re fertilized during fruit production. For every single 100-foot row of strawberries, mix approximately 5 lbs of a 10-10-10 fertilizer into a shallow trench with the row when the first fruits are approximately one-third grown, provide another identical feeding two weeks after choosing the first fruit, and do so again 1 month later. For tomatillos, gently mix about 1/2 cup of a 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil around each plant after choosing the first fruits to encourage continued flowering. Because tomatoes are heavier feeders compared to tomatillos, it’s best to plant them at side rows, so that it is possible to fertilize them individually.

Other Problems

Tomatoes are self-fertile, so you can select a great deal of fruit from a single plant, but the tomatillo plant does not share this attribute, therefore plant at least 2 tomatillos at a good harvest. Tomatillo plants typically become three or four feet tall, though some strawberries can be 5 or 6 feet tall, depending on the cultivar, and plants tend to sprawl on the ground since they grow if they’re not supported. Contact with the ground promotes spoiling and rotting of fruit, therefore both plants benefit from staking or growing in cages. The plants are also prone to the same insect insects — aphids, cucumber beetles and other leaf-eaters — that could damage leaf and lessen fruiting. Spray plants with insecticidal soap to control these insects, diluting 6 tablespoons in 1 gallon of water. Spray until the plants have been dripping wet and repeat every 2 weeks as required.

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What Is Literary to Switch by My Leach Lines?

Yellowing strips of grass above leach lines are a problem during summer weather. Discolored strips of grass in the yard are an issue. Less defined regions of grass that coincide with moist weather are a symptom of a flooded leach field. A flooded leach field can severely harm grass and might cause.

Striping the Yard

Brown or yellow stripes appearing during dry weather at the yard indicate the lay of leach lines. As temperatures increase, more moisture is drawn by grass . The soil above leach lines is more shallow than the soil in the remainder of the yard, so it holds less water compared to the remainder of the yard, causing grass directly to dry out and turn yellowish. Regular mowing or cutting the yard low adds additional stress. If grass turns yellow after it is mowed, mowing less frequently and raising the mower deck can stop the grass from turning yellowish.

About Striped Leach Lines

The building codes which were in effect if there was a house constructed regulate the leach lines have been buried, and consequently the grass over them’s ability to withstand weather. Homes or older systems constructed in areas with a high water table or soil might have leach lines closer to the surface compared to building codes allow. Rebuilding the leach field to bury leach lines is an alternative, but generally dried grass’ stripes are dormant, not dead. They’ll recover when cooler autumn weather begins. The issue can be temporarily alleviated by watering the yellowish stripes at the yard, but it is generally not a fantastic idea. Watering the lawn over the leach field reduces its ability and may eventually create your septic system to fail.

Flooded Leach Fields

Leach lines present water to the soil, affecting the health of the grass over them. Regions of grass around the leach field are a indication that water from the leach field is flooding the grass over its root zone. Flooding in fields usually happens with restricted drainage during periods of moist weather in areas. Leach areas that are flooded are a problem that is serious; flood can kill parts of the yard that remain flooded for over a few days.

Hazardous Compounds

The compounds that enter the system attached to a field can have an effect on the yard around the leach field. The waste water discharged by lines can increase the amount of salt from the soil, causing the grass around the lines to turn yellowish. Chemicals dumped down the drain can impair the performance of the system and infiltrate the soil around the leach field, polluting the groundwater and damaging the yard.

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