302 Echo Chainsaw Specifications

The CS-302 is a professional-grade chainsaw that has been fabricated Echo between 1977 and 1983. Even though it’s long been replaced by newer models in Echo’s product line, models of this nimble and hardy CS-302 are still to be used by chainsaw fans, and reconditioned units and parts are easily available on the secondary market.

Engine Specs

The CS-302 is powered by an air-cooled, two-cycle, one-cylinder engine fueled by a gas-and-oil mix. It features a 30.1-cubic-centimeter piston displacement, and it is equipped with a magneto-type flywheel, either a Walbro or Tillotson carburetor depending upon the model year and an automatic rewind starter. The saw’s power mind, minus the guide bar and chain, weighs in at 9.9 lbs.

String, Bar and Chain Brake

Standard equipment on the CS-302 was a 12-inch guide pub, but the saw could be outfitted with a bar around 16 inches . Its series has a quarter-inch pitch and 0.05-inch gauge. The CS-302 wasn’t equipped with a chain brake, a security mechanism that stops the spinning of the series when the saw goes back, as standard equipment, but an optional string brake was accessible as an extra-cost add-on.

Starting Sequence

The CS-302 is equipped with a conventional starter system that needs adjustment of the throttle and choke levers during the beginning sequence. The string involves locking the throttle open, closing the choke, yanking the rotor rope, opening the choke if the engine starts to fire and disengaging the throttle after the engine starts. Some newer Echo models, like the CS-355T, are outfitted with reduced-effort launching systems featuring digital ignition; the maker asserts that these systems require 30 percent less effort compared to those used on models like the CS-302.


The version closest in specifications to the CS-302 in the 2014 Echo lineup is the CS-303T. Like the CS-302, the CS-303T is equipped with 30.1-cubic-centimeter two-cycle engine, and it comes standard with either a 12- or 14-inch guide bar. The CS-303T has digital ignition, but it has a standard beginning system instead of the higher-end reduced-effort system. The CS-303T is also outfitted with an inertia-type series brake, and at 7.7 lbs, it is significantly lighter than the CS-302.

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Is Creeping Rosemary Edible?

“Prostratus” (Rosmarinus officinalis “Prostratus”), commonly referred to as creeping rosemary, is winter-hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 7 to 11. The fast-growing, edible herb adds pungent flavor to Mediterranean cuisine, and also the delicate flowers are as delicious as the leaves. It functions nicely as a ground cover, in container gardens, window boxes and can climb inside.

Creeping Rosemary Features

“Prostratus” is an evergreen perennial and also a versatile culinary herb. Maintaining a lower profile compared to erect rosemary, it grows 1 to 2 feet tall and 3 to 8 feet wide. It can track on planters, window boxes or above partitions, offering cascades of greenery and tiny flowers. This creeping rosemary displays dainty lavender-blue flowers and green leaves. Its leaves emit a mild pinelike fragrance. Use it fresh or dried to include meat, poultry and savory vegetable dishes. Only eat fresh rosemary you have that you know hasn’t been sprayed with chemicals.

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What Grade of Oil Is Used on a Chainsaw Oiler?

Bar Oil is designed to stick to the chain and bar of a chainsaw. It doesn’t include a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) grade, also referred to as weight classification, similar to motor oil for your vehicle, but instead is rated for winter or summer use. Each manufacturer has its own recommendation for what petroleum type and grade ought to be utilized in its machine, so consult the operator’s manual when choosing bar oil for your chainsaw.

Summer Versus Winter

Heat from summer thins oil, and cold from winter makes it thick. Both conditions make you end up with a dry chain which means harm to your saw. To prevent this, chainsaw manufacturers make bar oils matched to the air temperature as well as the saw where it is harnessed. Even though they do not disclose the weight of their petroleum, the University of Missouri Extension advocates in lieu of utilizing a pub oil, select SAE 30 weight oil at summer and SAE 10 in winter.

Vegetable Oil

When a chainsaw is operating properly, it throws a flow of oil off the bar and onto whatever is in its own path. When that oil is petroleum-based, it leads to damage to wildlife and health issues for employees. Vegetable-based chain lubricants were developed to overcome these drawbacks. They’re weighted to function in warm and cold temperatures, consume about 50 percent less product compared to petroleum oils and do not pollute lakes and streams when utilized around them.

The normal

Petroleum-based pub oil has been the norm for chainsaws. Lightweight oil is employed in winter and heavier oil in summer. Manufacturers of chainsaws make bar and chain oils specially blended for their machinery to expand their lifespan, however, if they’re unavailable, the operator’s manual suggests options. One manufacturer recommends utilizing petroleum-based EP 90 transmission oil in case pub petroleum isn’t obtainable. Used motor oil isn’t advised because it lacks adequate viscosity to get lubing the chain.


The oil you put in your chainsaw oiler should have good adhesion to this chain all the way across the bar to reduce friction and prevent damage. Some bar oils also keep debris and sap from sticking to the pub and causing clogs. Check if you’ve got the right weight oil for the air temperature you’re working in by holding the saw about 8 inches from your tree stump or white rag, and rev the motor to about 75 percent throttle for a single minute. A line must form about the object you’ve got the saw pointed inoil and oil must flow freely in the oiler.

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How to Dye Cushions

If you want to replace aged pillows which are still in great shape, then consider dyeing them. An inexpensive package of dye in any colour of your choice, as well as a little investment of time, can transform your pillows and give them a new look. This small change can do wonders to refresh the decor of an entire seating room or area.

Take the fabric covers the pillows off. If your pillow covers don’t have zippers or a different sort of closure, unpick a small section of one of the seams with a seam ripper or embroidery scissors. Put aside the pillow kind or stuffing for today.

Pour 2 cups of water into a saucepan and bring it to a boil on your stove top. Move the boiling water into a plastic bucket, put on rubber gloves, and include dye from the package according to the manufacturer’s directions. Stir the solution with an aged wooden spoon until the dye is completely dissolved in the water.

Run the hot water until it is as hot as it can get, then add more warm water into the bucket to get the quantity of wax solution recommended by the manufacturer.

Plunge the pillow covers into the bucket and thrust them into the dye solution with the wooden spoon until they are fully submerged. Catch the covers to soak in the dye bath for about five minutes.

Stir in 1 cup of salt or 1 cup of white vinegar into the wax solution, based on the fabric content of your pillow covers. Use salt for cotton, cotton or rayon fabric, or white vinegar for wool, nylon or silk fabric. Adding the salt or vinegar helps the dye soak into the fabric more easily.

Return to the dye bath every five to ten minutes to stir and agitate the pillow covers a little with the wooden spoon. This helps the dye evenly penetrate the fabric. Keep this agitation for about half an hour.

Lift one of the pillow covers partially from the dye bath to check at the shade. If the shade isn’t as heavy as you desire, return it into the dye bath and keep soaking the covers, stirring and agitating every five to ten minutes until the shade is satisfactory. It shouldn’t take over an hour. Keep in mind that the last shade once the fabric is dry will be lighter than it appears when the fabric is wet.

Lift the pillow covers from the dye bath and squeeze the excess dye solution back into the bucket. Take the covers into the sink and rinse them under warm water, then cold water until you can’t see any more dye running from the fabric. Squeeze the covers to remove excess water, then put them in your clothes dryer or hang them up to dry.

Set the cushion types or stuffing back inside the pillow covers. In case you needed to unpick part of a seam to remove the pillows, then stitch the seam back with a needle and matching thread.

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Apple Trees That Grow in Hot Areas

Apples (Malus domestica cultivars) are somewhat temperate-climate harvest, suited to places with cold winters to ensure plant dormancy and following fruits. Over time, growers have developed varieties suited to milder winter climates. These low-chill varieties enable gardeners in warmer climes to enjoy home-grown apples. Home orchards at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10 can produce tasty apples, occasionally in numerous crops during the year. The secret is pick of varieties that match with the winter-chill characteristics for your region.

Winter-Chill Requirements

Apple trees need a certain number of cold nights to offer dormancy for great flowering and fruiting. Winter-chill conditions are calculated from November through February, when temperatures drop between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The low-temperature hours don’t have to be sequential. Most apples require 1,000 chill hours or more. But moderate chill apple types require 400 to 700 chill hours, and low-chill varieties can bear well with fewer than 400 winter-chill hours.

Low-Chill Varieties

Some apples require few to no winter-chill hours. These include “Anna,” “Dorsett Golden” and “Ein Shemer.” “Anna” requires 200 to 300 winter-chill hours. This green apple, frequently tinged with pink, was created in Israel especially for mild winter regions. Fruit ripens in June to July, and the taste is comparable to that of “Red Delicious” apples. “Dorsett Golden” apples are yellow-green flushed with red-orange, and the taste resembles “Golden Delicious.” “Ein Shemer” also originated in Israel, and bears ample small, sweet-tasting green apples. “Beverly Hills,” also a green fruit, produces well at 300 winter-chill hours. “Gordon” does well with 300 to 500 winter chill hours, and “Fuji” and “Granny Smith” both require 400 hours. “Anna,” “Dorsett Golden” and “Ein Shemer” all develop in USDA zones 5 through 9. “Fuji,” “Beverly Hills” and “Granny Smith” grow in USDA zones 6 through 9, with “Gordon” hardy in zones 5 through 10.

Medium-Chill Varieties

Even though they require more winter chill, medium-chill apples also grow well in USDA zones 8 through 11. Cultivars demanding 500 to 700 chill hours include “Gala” at 500 hours, “Golden Delicious” at 600 to 700 hours, and “Gravenstein,” “Newton” and “Rome Beauty” at 700 hours. All the low-chill varieties can also produce under these conditions. Red “Gala” apples have good taste and are great for cooking, eating, cooking, applesauce and apple butter. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10. “Fuji” apples are yellow-green streaked and tinged with crimson. They originated in Japan from a cross between the cultivars “Ralls Janet” and “Red Delicious.” These large, sweet, crisp apples have a firm texture. “Gravenstein” and “Golden Delicious” are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9, “Newton” at USDA zones 3 through 8 and “Rome Beauty” in zones 4 through 8.

Antique Varieties

Some antique cultivars suited to growing in mild winter climates of USDA zones 8 through 11 have been “Pettingill,” “Yellow Bellflower,” “Winter Banana” and “White Winter Pearmain.” The “Pettingill” apple was discovered in 1949 as a chance seedling at Long Beach, California. The green fruit is flushed crimson, and has sharp, sweet flesh. “Yellow Bellflower” is yellow flushed red-orange. It produces great cider, dessert and baking apples. “Winter Banana” has a unique aroma and taste, somewhat reminiscent of banana. “White Winter Pearmain” has yellow skin, flushed and dotted reddish-brown. Used mostly as an eating apple, it’s juicy, subacid and sharp. “Pettingill” and “Winter Banana” rise in USDA zones 3 through 9, “Yellow Bellflower” in zones 4 through 8 and “White Winter Pearmain” at USDA zones 5 through 8.

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The way to Compare Residential HVAC Systems

The heating and cooling of a home is a intricate task that needs the use of HVAC (heat, ventilation and air conditioning) equipment to moderate the temperature. When comparing systems for a residential HVAC system, understand that HVAC systems possess universal qualifications concerning the general heating and cooling of buildings. For the very best climate control in your home, look at the direct needs of the residential setting to ascertain the best outcomes.


Efficiency evaluations are universal and apply to all heating and cooling systems. The newer and more modern the model, the more likely it is to get a higher performance rating. This is the government standard for just how efficient a unit consumes energy. Always consider the efficiency of a unit prior to buying it.

Size of this HVAC Unit

The size of this residential HVAC unit is also important in saving energy and maintaining your bills in a minimum. A unit that is too small for the house will never be in a position to fully heat or cool a home. That means that the engine/motor/fuel/energy is always going without ever resting because the unit never fully controls the climate. If the unit is too large, there will be an excessive, or overkill, of energy output. Always purchase a unit that has a number that matches as closely as possible together with all the square footage of your home.

Air Conditioner Types

Even though air-conditioner units can come as part of a switch-unit that also shares the ventilation with the heater, they also arrive as standalone units. These may be outside of the home or in a basement or furnace room. Window-mounted units are also available, which can be more useful for smaller rooms; wall-mounted units are also available for smaller settings. Air conditioners do not need gasoline to function as they run off electricity.

Furnace Types

Furnaces can be stand alone or part of an overall HVAC unit. They rely on either electricity, wood or natural gas to function. Wood-burning furnaces are relatively old-fashioned, while natural gas and electrical are more common, modern counterparts. They heat air which is blown through vents or water that is forced through pipes. The type of energy intake is usually depending on what is most readily accessible to you, or what is the most economical in your area.


Consider geothermal if you’re building a new home and have additional cash in your budget. While a small HVAC system for a residential home might only cost between $5,000 and $10,000 on average due to 2012, a geothermal unit prices in the tens of thousands. On the other hand, the energy intake is drastically lower compared to traditional forms of heat as it uses the bottom temperature to maintain steady climate year-round. The EPA has proven that geothermal components can save as much as 40 percent annually on the expense of heating and cooling a home, but the very first setup costs are significantly more than traditional HVAC systems.

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