The CS-302 is a professional-grade chainsaw that has been fabricated Echo between 1977 and 1983. Even though it’s long been replaced by newer models in Echo’s product line, models of this nimble and hardy CS-302 are still to be used by chainsaw fans, and reconditioned units and parts are easily available on the secondary market.
The CS-302 is powered by an air-cooled, two-cycle, one-cylinder engine fueled by a gas-and-oil mix. It features a 30.1-cubic-centimeter piston displacement, and it is equipped with a magneto-type flywheel, either a Walbro or Tillotson carburetor depending upon the model year and an automatic rewind starter. The saw’s power mind, minus the guide bar and chain, weighs in at 9.9 lbs.
String, Bar and Chain Brake
Standard equipment on the CS-302 was a 12-inch guide pub, but the saw could be outfitted with a bar around 16 inches . Its series has a quarter-inch pitch and 0.05-inch gauge. The CS-302 wasn’t equipped with a chain brake, a security mechanism that stops the spinning of the series when the saw goes back, as standard equipment, but an optional string brake was accessible as an extra-cost add-on.
The CS-302 is equipped with a conventional starter system that needs adjustment of the throttle and choke levers during the beginning sequence. The string involves locking the throttle open, closing the choke, yanking the rotor rope, opening the choke if the engine starts to fire and disengaging the throttle after the engine starts. Some newer Echo models, like the CS-355T, are outfitted with reduced-effort launching systems featuring digital ignition; the maker asserts that these systems require 30 percent less effort compared to those used on models like the CS-302.
The version closest in specifications to the CS-302 in the 2014 Echo lineup is the CS-303T. Like the CS-302, the CS-303T is equipped with 30.1-cubic-centimeter two-cycle engine, and it comes standard with either a 12- or 14-inch guide bar. The CS-303T has digital ignition, but it has a standard beginning system instead of the higher-end reduced-effort system. The CS-303T is also outfitted with an inertia-type series brake, and at 7.7 lbs, it is significantly lighter than the CS-302.
Bar Oil is designed to stick to the chain and bar of a chainsaw. It doesn’t include a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) grade, also referred to as weight classification, similar to motor oil for your vehicle, but instead is rated for winter or summer use. Each manufacturer has its own recommendation for what petroleum type and grade ought to be utilized in its machine, so consult the operator’s manual when choosing bar oil for your chainsaw.
Summer Versus Winter
Heat from summer thins oil, and cold from winter makes it thick. Both conditions make you end up with a dry chain which means harm to your saw. To prevent this, chainsaw manufacturers make bar oils matched to the air temperature as well as the saw where it is harnessed. Even though they do not disclose the weight of their petroleum, the University of Missouri Extension advocates in lieu of utilizing a pub oil, select SAE 30 weight oil at summer and SAE 10 in winter.
When a chainsaw is operating properly, it throws a flow of oil off the bar and onto whatever is in its own path. When that oil is petroleum-based, it leads to damage to wildlife and health issues for employees. Vegetable-based chain lubricants were developed to overcome these drawbacks. They’re weighted to function in warm and cold temperatures, consume about 50 percent less product compared to petroleum oils and do not pollute lakes and streams when utilized around them.
Petroleum-based pub oil has been the norm for chainsaws. Lightweight oil is employed in winter and heavier oil in summer. Manufacturers of chainsaws make bar and chain oils specially blended for their machinery to expand their lifespan, however, if they’re unavailable, the operator’s manual suggests options. One manufacturer recommends utilizing petroleum-based EP 90 transmission oil in case pub petroleum isn’t obtainable. Used motor oil isn’t advised because it lacks adequate viscosity to get lubing the chain.
The oil you put in your chainsaw oiler should have good adhesion to this chain all the way across the bar to reduce friction and prevent damage. Some bar oils also keep debris and sap from sticking to the pub and causing clogs. Check if you’ve got the right weight oil for the air temperature you’re working in by holding the saw about 8 inches from your tree stump or white rag, and rev the motor to about 75 percent throttle for a single minute. A line must form about the object you’ve got the saw pointed inoil and oil must flow freely in the oiler.
The heating and cooling of a home is a intricate task that needs the use of HVAC (heat, ventilation and air conditioning) equipment to moderate the temperature. When comparing systems for a residential HVAC system, understand that HVAC systems possess universal qualifications concerning the general heating and cooling of buildings. For the very best climate control in your home, look at the direct needs of the residential setting to ascertain the best outcomes.
Efficiency evaluations are universal and apply to all heating and cooling systems. The newer and more modern the model, the more likely it is to get a higher performance rating. This is the government standard for just how efficient a unit consumes energy. Always consider the efficiency of a unit prior to buying it.
Size of this HVAC Unit
The size of this residential HVAC unit is also important in saving energy and maintaining your bills in a minimum. A unit that is too small for the house will never be in a position to fully heat or cool a home. That means that the engine/motor/fuel/energy is always going without ever resting because the unit never fully controls the climate. If the unit is too large, there will be an excessive, or overkill, of energy output. Always purchase a unit that has a number that matches as closely as possible together with all the square footage of your home.
Air Conditioner Types
Even though air-conditioner units can come as part of a switch-unit that also shares the ventilation with the heater, they also arrive as standalone units. These may be outside of the home or in a basement or furnace room. Window-mounted units are also available, which can be more useful for smaller rooms; wall-mounted units are also available for smaller settings. Air conditioners do not need gasoline to function as they run off electricity.
Furnaces can be stand alone or part of an overall HVAC unit. They rely on either electricity, wood or natural gas to function. Wood-burning furnaces are relatively old-fashioned, while natural gas and electrical are more common, modern counterparts. They heat air which is blown through vents or water that is forced through pipes. The type of energy intake is usually depending on what is most readily accessible to you, or what is the most economical in your area.
Consider geothermal if you’re building a new home and have additional cash in your budget. While a small HVAC system for a residential home might only cost between $5,000 and $10,000 on average due to 2012, a geothermal unit prices in the tens of thousands. On the other hand, the energy intake is drastically lower compared to traditional forms of heat as it uses the bottom temperature to maintain steady climate year-round. The EPA has proven that geothermal components can save as much as 40 percent annually on the expense of heating and cooling a home, but the very first setup costs are significantly more than traditional HVAC systems.
A space heater is a mobile device that is designed to efficiently heat a small place. Most space heaters are powered by household electricity, and they employ a huge variety of heat technologies. When correctly used, a space heater will make you more comfortable and reduce the cost required to work with your primary heating system.
Kinds of Space Heaters
Frequent kinds of electrical space heaters include convection, radiant, ceramic and oil-filled. Convection units warm a room by passing air over a heat component and distributing this warmed air, frequently with the assistance of a fan, into the surrounding area. Radiant heaters generate infrared radiation that directly heats the people and objects in a room. Ceramic heaters are similar to convection heaters, but they are usually smaller and more efficient. Oil-filled heaters, also referred to as radiators, provide gentle, stable heat that naturally diffuses to your room.
Choosing the Right Heater
A space heater will supplement your furnace more efficiently if you choose a heater that is appropriate for your circumstances. A ceramic heater works well in small, enclosed spaces, or even in regions where it’ll warm specific parts of your body (like under a desk to heat your toes). Convection heaters and oil-filled heaters are great options for larger areas like basements or family rooms. Radiant heaters fast warm up people and objects but do not heat the surrounding atmosphere, and consequently they are often used in areas that do not need to stay warm, like garages.
Generally speaking, a space heater isn’t an economical supply of long-term warmth. Use your space heater when you’re in the room, and let your furnace keep the temperature during other occasions. If your primary goal is to heat yourself and not the whole room, then use a glowing heater along with a ceramic heater pulled near your body. Also, do not use an extension cord with your space heater; a longer cord consumes extra power.
Pros and Cons of Space Heaters
Some experts say it’s challenging to achieve substantial energy savings by using a space heater to supplement your furnace. As an example, a researcher at Cornell University’s College of Human Ecology discovered that heat one room using a space heater was nearly as pricey as heat a whole 1,200-square-foot house with a normal furnace. This doesn’t necessarily mean that space heaters are ineffective, but it will not indicate that you need to use space heaters carefully if you’re trying to reduce your heating costs.