How to Stop a Grill From Clogging With Drippings

The burners are the heart of your gas grill, designed to distribute gas evenly. After the grill is triggered, the small vents, or openings, at the burners permit the gas to escape and make a fire pit. If a couple of holes become clogged with drippings and debris, then the gas can’t escape to make a flame, making it tricky to consume food evenly. If you use your grill frequently or sometimes, properly maintain your grill to lessen flareups and keep your burners out of clogging.

Close the lid on your grill once you completed cooking. Turn the burners into the highest temperature setting for 10 to 15 minutes. This allows any drippings or debris to burn off the burners and the grates. Allow the grill to cool until the grates are hot to the touch. Clean the surface of the grates and also the leftovers following the burn-off using a scraper or brush designed for use on your grill cloth.

Cook fatty cuts of beef, poultry and heavily marinated foods on a grill griddle or searing pan. The griddle or pan will catch the extra juices and stop them from dripping onto the leftovers. You are able to move the foods into the grill grate to get the last two or three minutes of cooking to add to the visual appeal and flavor of your food.

Turn on your lava rocks within your grill if applicable. The rocks capture the drippings out of your foods. By turning them occasionally, you assist with the burn off of grease and greasy foods that could drip and clog your leftovers. Replace your lava rocks once they began to appear old, have an unpleasant odor or break apart. If you use your grill frequently, substituting your lava rocks once a season are able to continue to keep debris out of the rocks from clogging your burners.

Spray a biodegradable grill cleaner over the interior surface of a trendy grill, such as the burners. Allow the product to set for the time recommended in the manufacturer’s directions. Wipe the interior of the grill, such as the burners, using a rag to remove residue that can clog your own grill.

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How Much Do I Sand to Paint Stained Windows?

Painting over blot can be a bit of a trick. The key is to divide the glossy finish of this blot and remove any sticky residue from the window frames. This can be carried out in a number of ways; typically, a mix of chemicals and mechanical sanding is simplest for preparing the surface for paint. If possible, disassemble the frame so you can work on the individual sashes to make all surfaces accessible and to prevent over-sanding that may damage graffiti details.

Removing the Sashes

Most wooden windows are single- or double-hung sashes. Remove the inside stop trim, and it is a thin wooden strip running vertically up both side jambs facing the lower sash. Use a lean pry-bar to lift it up softly. Lift the window sash out and eliminate the strings from the side notches, or unsnap the clip rings at the top corners to release it. Remove the divider prevent, situated similarly facing the top sash, to lift it out. Lay the sashes on a sturdy surface for sanding. This creates both the sashes and the window frame more accessible.

Chemical Sanding

With a paintbrush, apply a compound sanding agent or deglosser to the surface to help break down the upper layer of this finish. Although this step could be skipped, it is going to save time and sandpaper replacement because of varnish buildup. Allow the solution to sit down for five minutes, then rub firmly using a clean, soft rag. Let it sit for 2 additional hours, then rinse with a rag dampened in mineral spirits. The sash will now be ready for sanding. Do this for the two sashes and the window frame.

Mechanical Sanding

Begin with a rather coarse-grit sandpaper, including 80 or 100 grit. Use this to remove the majority of the staying clear finish, down to the timber. Make another pass with finer sandpaper, up to 220 grit. An oscillating tool fitted with a hook and loop pad accessory along with an applicable sandpaper accessory is excellent for this particular project. The application saves time and operates out the finer details with no rounding over detailed advantages. Look for the majority of the color of the stain to be lightened, but not necessarily completely eliminated. The goal is to smooth the surface while opening up the grain to get good adhesion. The finished surface should have a smooth, chalky feel. Remove the dust with a tack cloth.


Applying primer is an integral step when going between two different endings, whether that be blot to paint, or oil paint to water base, or vice versa. Use an oil bonding primer to fill out the prep. Apply it with a brush at a thin, even coating, working to pay the whole surface. Allow the primer to dry, then sand lightly to remove any roughness that developed during the primer’s drying stage. Use the finest-grit sandpaper you used previously. Don’t sand through the primer coating. The window frame shouldn’t be completely ready for painting.

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How to Use Hot Water for Weed Control

Weeds instantly multiply, building a landscape look sloppy and stealing nutrients from desirable plants. Chemical weedkillers are an option to eliminate weeds, but their potential for negative environmental and health consequences leads several homeowners to seek natural options. The boiling water treatment is inexpensive and successful in burning weeds. Hot water works better on broad-leaf weeds than it will on established perennials, woody plants and grass, based on University of California Integrated Pest Management Online.

Dress in a shirt long pants, socks and closed-toed shoes. The clothing will help to protect your skin if you are splashed onto by the water.

Identify the weeds you plan to kill using the water method. Pick weeds that aren’t near plants that you need to call home. When the boiling water strikes a plant, that plant probably will die. Boiling water works well on weeds along sidewalks and drives, away from other crops.

Fill in a teakettle. Heat the water on a stove burner comes. The water needs to be greater than 200 F, based on University of California Integrated Pest Management Online.

Place an oven mitt or glove in your hand. Switch the stove burner off, and remove the teakettle. Carry the teakettle carefully although instantly to the weeds that you want to kill. Don’t waste time getting to the weeds since the water temperature drops quickly.

Hold the teakettle’s spout near the weeds to get the best control of the water, and then pour the boiling water directly onto the weeds. Pour doesn’t splash.

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The Way to Spray Paint Cabinet Hardware

Durable closet hardware is well worth keeping even if its finish is outdated or no longer matches the decor of the room. Rather than settling for hardware in its present less-than-attractive condition or completely replacing every knob or pull when repainting cabinets, give that cupboard hardware a makeover of its own with spray paint. Spray paint leaves a smoother finish than brushing the paint, as the spray travels around curves and into particulars without leaving brush lines about the hardware.

Clean out the hardware thoroughly using a vacuum cleaner and moist sponge which has a nylon scrub pad. Wipe away the cleaner with a damp sponge, then dry the hardware with paper towels.

Cover the work area with paper. Sand each hardware bit to scuff the paint or complete, which makes it increasingly receptive to paint. This is important if the hardware is made from metal, plastic or wood. Wipe away the dust with a soft fabric.

Set the cupboard hardware atop a bit of scrap corrugated cardboard or shipping foam. If the hardware has a screw backing such as a drawer pull, push the end of the screw through the cardboard or foam so the pull sits erect.

Don a face mask and ventilate the region. Shake the spray primer can for a moment or as directed by the can’s instructions. Prime each piece of hardware by spraying it with smooth, even strokes, holding the can 12 to 18 inches away. Allow the primer to dry completely.

Shake the spray paint may as indicated from the paint instructions. Paint each bit of hardware in the same manner as applying the primer, using smooth, slow strokes, overlapping each marginally for a comprehensive application. Enable the paint to dry completely. Apply a second coat if the finish appears uneven in any areas, allowing it to dry also.

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How to Remove From Wooden Furniture

Cigarette butt or an errant ash that overlooks the ashtray may cause a burn mark. In some cases, cigarette burns may have been there a while, such as on furniture you purchased secondhand from a thrift store or yard sale. These unsightly burn marks are deep, damaging the finish instead of the wood itself. At times, the cause of the problem is also a part of the treatment: Cigarette ash is a key ingredient in a rub that removes burn marks from timber.

Wipe the area that is damaged using a damp sponge to wash the wood and remove any ashes left behind. Wipe again with a dry cloth.

Place a little bit of wood or smoke ash ash in a shallow bowl. Add just enough mineral oil or linseed oil to create a paste, mixing it with a toothpick or a spoon.

Wrap a soft white fabric and dip your finger into the paste mix that is greasy — instead of a fabric ensures no dye will transfer to the timber using white. Rub the mixture over the burn mark, after the grain, until the wake disappears. Wipe the material from time with another part of the fabric. When the mark fades, wipe away it completely with a corner of the fabric.

Pour a little linseed or mineral oil. Rub the oil over the burned area, after the timber grain. Permit the oil to sit down for a few minutes, and then wipe off excess with a section of the fabric.

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How to Clean an Antique Wood Table & Chairs Without Damaging Them

Antique wood furniture ages differently depending upon its own history and environment, resulting in one-of-a-kind objects that make for great conversation pieces for your home. If your dining table and chairs are worn that the end is excessively damaged, it is best to consult a conservation professional about how to move in restoring and cleaning it, because a first finish is a significant part of the value of a antique furniture pieces. But if the end is intact or only slightly worn, then the pieces likely only need to be washed to remove stains and dirt.

Dust Away

The first step to cleaning antique wood furniture will be to quietly remove any dust that has built upon its surfaces. To prevent scraping the wood, use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment for hard-to-reach surfaces or crevices, like the table and chair legs, or simply use a handheld soft brush or very soft fabric for your bigger surfaces.

Strike Dirt

So long as the finish to the wood is still in good shape, you can use a diluted soap on almost any regions of the table and chairs with heavy levels of dirt accumulation or water-soluble stains. Dilute a household detergent or, better yet, a conservation-grade furniture detergent with water, in a ratio of approximately 1 teaspoon of soap each pint of water. Apply a soft cloth that’s been dampened with the solution to the surface of the wood. Rinse with another soft cloth dampened with distilled water. Be careful not to use too much water, since this can stain and damage the wood.

Go to the Grime

Oil-based stains like fingerprints, and oily dirt and grime from past uses of wax, can accumulate in a wood piece’s finish. If these stains are evident in your piece, they can be attached with paint thinner, or mineral spirits. Dampen a soft cloth with a small amount of paint thinner and analyze a very small affected area to make sure that it does not have a negative reaction to the finish. Otherwise, clean all affected regions. If wood does react badly into the paint thinner, consult a conservation professional to determine the best method of cleaning.

Waxy Complete

After cleaning, applying a high-quality furniture wax into your pieces will protect them from further harm without disturbing the original finish. Place a small amount of wax onto a soft cloth and rub in a circular motion; change fabrics often. Choose a mild or clear wax for light finishes. Pick a dark wax for darker finishes to steer clear of sesame or marks.

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How to Clean Your House's Upholstery

If your home is feeling dingy lately, but you can’t quite pinpoint why, it might be time for you to clean your upholstery. Freshly cleaned upholstery may take tired-looking furniture, carpets and window treatments from drab to dazzling in virtually no time. Even though you might be scared to wash your upholstery from fear of damaging it, a couple of important approaches — using mild cleaning solutions and spot-testing first, paying attention to care levels, washing with cold water — can help you restore the attractiveness of your upholstery without causing injury.

Furniture Goes From Filthy to Fabulous

Thoroughness is the key to cleaning a chair, sofa or another sort of upholstered furniture. Begin by removing all the cushions and throw pillows and then use a vacuum cleaner with a crevice attachment tool to suction out any debris. Vacuum into all the creases and corners, where dirt, mud and other dirty particles hide, such as both sides of the cushions. Removable covers can merely go in the wash, but first assess the care conditions on the tags: Some fabrics only tolerate water, while others tolerate a solvent, water or a mix of both. Clean stains using a soft white fabric. In a pinch, you can even use a gentle baby wipe, just remember to spot-test any cleaning solution first in a hidden region of the upholstery in case it turns out to be damaging.

“Like New” Carpets and Rugs

Rugs add warmth and comfort to your living space, however, foot traffic, pet hair and spills can make them get dirty very fast. Accumulated dirt adds to irreversible wear and tear on the rug. Vacuum big carpets and carpets often — on either side — if they are reversible. It is possible to simply shake or beat your area rugs to eliminate dust, grit and dirt. Some rugs go straight into the washing machine to get laundering, while others should be spot or dry cleaned. Check the rug’s care label.

Winning Window Treatments

Your window treatments gather dirt and dust fast, along with irritants and allergens, so regular cleaning is a must. Every week, vacuum curtains using the upholstery brush attachment. For lightweight curtains, such as sheers, a very simple shake is enough to dislodge any dirt particles trapped in the stuff. Throughout spring cleaning, most curtains can go directly into the wash. Just like the other types of upholstery, check the care label before doing so, and always spot-test your cleaning formula in an unseen area of the fabric. Cold water and a small quantity of detergent get most curtains clean, but heavy, lined drapes generally must go to the dry cleaners.

Bringing in the Big Guns

Sometimes a cleaning job is just too big or time-consuming for you. Many grocery shops rent carpet cleaning machines, which you may use on all kinds of upholstery, even the very delicate fibers. These machines can wash everything from mattresses into curtains, while eliminating unsightly stains and unpleasant scents. Or, just leave the job at the capable, skilled hands of an expert.

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The way to Steam a Feather Pillow

Steam machines clean your home without scrubbing, chemicals, or even large quantities of water. Dry steam machines make a vapor hot enough to kill dust mites, viruses, and mold inside the pillow through the cloth, but containing only 5 percent to 6 percent water so feathers do not mat as they would in a washing machine. Purchase a steam cleaner for regular home use, or simply rent one for seasonal cleaning. (Reference 1)

Fill steam cleaner with water in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.

Heating steam cleaner as long as advocated by the producer.

Arrange your feather pillow over a place that won’t be damaged from the steam, avoiding heat-sensitive fabric. Leave your pillow on the bed if you’re steam cleaning the rest of the bed or bed, or put it on a towel on a hard surface. (Reference 1)

Spray the steam onto the feather pillow, starting at one corner and covering the entire surface of the cushion gradually in a back and forth movement, allowing steam entirely penetrate the cloth to kill viruses and dust inside. (Reference 1)

Turn the pillow over and steam the entire surface of the other side of the pillow.

Dry your pillow in the sun if required or toss it in the dryer with clean tennis balls or shoes to fluff feathers if desired. A steam vapor cleaner leaves hardly any moisture behind, so a complete drying cycle is not necessary. (Reference 2)

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How Can I Remove Fire Smoke Smell From Apartment?

Smoke leaves a smell that’s challenging to remove, particularly when it includes the burning of plastic or synthetic stuff. However, there are a couple of practices which will greatly reduce the odor of the smoke. After some work and a few simple steps, most of the odor should dissipate so you no longer detect it. What you’re doing is decreasing the number of particles by eliminating them from the area in order for your olfactory nerves no more may detect the smoke.

Blow out the flat with favorable pressure. This is significantly more effective that using an exhaust fan or opening a window. Set up the largest fan you can get, outside the front of your apartment door facing inwards. Turn it on top and blow fresh air in the home. As the smoke increased, it full of all the spaces in your flat and you want to flush it out. Close all of the other windows and doors and open one window for your exhaust. This will force the new air into the space and push any lingering smoke. Be sure to remove the display for better airflow. Close the window and the door to the area and open the window in another room. Work through the house blowing out each area separately for at least 15 minutes. Secluded rooms may need a second fan pushing fresh air in from a different opening.

Eliminate all of the curtains and window treatments from the flat windows. They’ll have to be washed or dry cleaned. In the minimum, hang them out to air out from the fresh air to remove some of the smoke particles from the fibers. Wipe any mini blinds. Any cloth will have to be cleaned or aired out, including pillows, clothes, towels, and blankets, based on the severity of the smoke.

Wash down all the solid surfaces using a spray solution of one gallon of water, one teaspoon of dish soap or shampoo and a quarter cup of white vinegar. Use a rag and rinse it frequently in clean water. Wipe window sills, baseboards, tables, chairs, shelves, tile or wood flooring where the smoke particles may have settled. Very sooty smoke may have left a residue on walls and ceilings which will have to be cleaned.

Vacuum the carpets with a machine which includes a HEPA, or high-efficiency, filter to maintain the smoke particles from blowing off back in the area. Use an attachment to vacuum sofas and chairs and any exposed cushions. Go over the surfaces to remove as much soil as possible. If the smoke particles persist in the furniture, then you may purchase upholstery cleaner to loosen the soil and then vacuum again.

Wash all window displays where the smoke exited the apartment. Set them in a bathtub or shower and use dish soap or shampoo to wash the net then rinse with cool water. If you used an exhaust fan, wash the filter out in precisely the exact same manner. Change the air conditioner filter if it had been in use at the time of this flame.

Remove and wash all of the light fixtures. Smoke rose then settled which means there could be a group of particles around the top of the mild face plate or in the cups which home the bulbs.

Wash the front of your kitchen cabinets, particularly if it had been a kitchen fire that resulted in the smoke. Look for any flat surfaces where the particles may have settled and wash them down along with your cleaning solution.

Mop all of the floors which aren’t carpeted. As time passes and more particles drop out of the atmosphere and the contents of your flat, they will end up on the floor, so several cleanings will be necessary. Dip your mop from the soapy solution, wash the floor then rinse the mop from the sink under new running water. Otherwisethe smoke particles will float around in your mop bucket and end up back on the floor.

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